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So it turns out the OBS Studio build available in the Ubuntu/Pop!_OS repositories doesn't support anything other than X264. This sucks for people who don't have crazy good CPUs like me.

However live shouldn't be that hard when it comes to live encoding h264 video, since OBS supports the ASIC encoder built into my nvidia GPU, yet the option is not available?

Turns out, you need an ffmpeg build specifically with NVENC support. There are tutorials online that show you how to do this, but my goal of using desktop linux is to not have to be a l33t h4x0r just to get things to work.

Thankfully, getting OBS with nvenc (and supposidly Intel vaapi) doesn't involve having to follow tutorials on how to compile something. Instead, this is from the power of containerization: Canonical's snapd.

On Pop!_OS, be sure to run sudo apt install snapd. Also, feel free to remove OBS which you may have installed from the repos with sudo apt remove --purge obs-studio.

Finally, run snap install obs-studio. Vioila! You've got a fully nvenc supported build of OBS! Congrats.

Just one note, if you go to the snapcraft page here regarding this package, appearently there are a couple commands you should be aware of for getting cameras or removable storage to be accessable to OBS. sudo snap connect obs-studio:removable-media sudo snap connect obs-studio:camera

The snapcraft page also mentions some workarounds if you run into a known bugs at the time of writing this blog post which might be worth paying attention to if you notice weird behaviour.

WARNING: Back up your data before doing things I suggest here. Odds are you will break something so don't blame me as this may not work for you... do it at your own risk ;)

So I got a new 275GB Crucial SATA SSD for Christmas for my budget i3 desktop rig that I wanted to move my windows install over from a 500GB HDD. The last time I used clonezilla was a number of years ago (like 2007!), but I had a relatively clean install of Windows with only a few games and programs installed on the hard drive that I wanted to move over preferably without reinstalling Windows all over again since it is still effort. Why make extra work if you can help it?

Clonezilla isn't really made for moving data from a larger drive over to a smaller one like this using d2d cloning, which I guess makes sense, but that doesn't mean we can't make it work. Of course, you can't have more data on the source drive than what the SSD can hold, and who knows what other unknown issues might come up, but I only had the HDD 75GB full and it worked for me. Here's the step by step on how I made it work. Note I'm running Windows 10 Home on UEFI.

  1. In windows I first opened Disk Management (right click This PC in start and click manage) and shrink the partition down on the source drive to something less than the SSD so nothing funky happens.
  2. Create a bootable USB for clonezilla. I simply downloaded the clonezilla ZIP archive, and copied the files over to a blank USB drive formatted as FAT32. Then the F11 menu on my MSI motherboard detected it perfectly on reboot.
  3. Boot to clonezilla (I boot to RAM and remove the USB drive as soon as the blue screen comes up just because I think I recall clonezilla listing the USB drive back in 2007 when I last used it and I wanted to avoid any potential confusion as I'm simple minded. If it's not plugged in, it wont be listed as a disk, right? ;) ).
  4. Choose local disk to local disk cloning (or however it's worded) and then when asked to use Beginner or Expert mode, choose expert mode. You'll have to pick your source and destintion disk but this was pretty easy to understand minus the standard sda/sdb linux disk naming, it shows the disk drive size too so pretty easy to identify!
  5. In expert mode options, I left the flags that are already selected default but I turned on -icds which skips checking disk sizes.
  6. After that I chose k1 option on the next screen and watch it go.

THE LAST TWO OPTIONS ARE NECESSARY for this to work. If you forget the icds flag or the k1 option afterwards it will fail if not destroy your data if you screw something else up.

It moved all the data over and then resized the partition perfectly so that on reboot, the PC booted to the SSD perfectly (even though windows wanted to initially run chkdsk which I let it do and it was fine!). You can (and should) confirm this through disk management just in case, just make sure you boot to the SSD in case your motherboard defaults to the hard drive.

From there, I want to use the HDD as a regular storage drive. So I opened cmd as administrator, ran command diskpart, listed disks (using list disk) and selected the Hard drive disk with select disk 1 in my case (yours may be different!), then ran the command clean.

Then I went back to Disk Management, made sure the C drive partition was using all available space on the ssd (it was, clonezilla did it's job) and reformatted the HDD. Perfect. The whole process only took a few minutes.

Now I should say while this worked for me it may not necessarily work for everyone, of course, BACKUP YOUR DATA JUST IN CASE. Worst case scenario for me was I'd just have to reinstall Windows anyway since it was a fairly clean install and I had nothing important on it so I was willing to just dive in head first and try it. Your case may be different, so keep your data backed up before messing around in case you need to start from scratch!

So Kong from the DD-WRT forums used to provide builds for DD-WRT that I used for my MVEBU Linksys 1900acv2 router. He apparently doesn't anymore, which is fine, brainslayer builds are fine for me, but I wanted to keep the bins he had uploaded for reverting to stock.

I figured I'd post them here in case someone else is looking.

While you shouldn't need these for your 1900ac router if you followed the "FAQ" thread response I wrote, there may come a time you do need it. I tested it before on my acv2 from Kong but I actually got these from a different mirror (since kong deleted them) so they are not tested. I may test them someday. Until then, use at your own risk.

This is a single zip archive with all of the factory firmwares for 1200ac, 1900acv2 and 1900acs, which in theory the acs one should also work with the 1900acv2. Sorry, I don't have them for any other router, but you can check out this thread for details if yours isn't listed here which I can confirm works for the later 3200acm unlike testing these which I haven't done yet. Been busy working but perhaps someday I will. If you can comment below your results though that would be appreciated!

Of course.... if you completely brick your router, you can always go the route of a usb-to-ttl cable.

Anyhow, here is the download link.

Hello world!

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This is my first post! More to come someday. This blog is where I'll post... probably mostly linux stuff? Anything I feel like writing about, you'll find it here.

Cool part about this? I want to see how far I can push a Low End box (as if you call a blog nobody reads "pushing"). So...

This website is running on a lightweight blog platform called htmly. It's flat file based when it comes to storing data, so it's memory footprint is way smaller. I save a lot of resources that I would have used with something like wordpress.

I installed lighttpd web server, and php5. Setup a custom config in lighttpd that htmly suggests so you can't access the config directories and so that rewrite works. Server OS running Debian 8 on a BuyVM 128MB $15/yr Low End Box. I don't expect to get much traffic here so I figure this LEB will last me out a while. And hey.... for running a fully functional blog/CMS platform, this looks sexy:

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Yeah that's right! 8MB of ram used total for the entire system and web server. Of course, it's idle, and it is openvz (so not all the processes a dedi would have and in turn very little ram usage) but still, take that apache! No way it would use such little memory even idle haha